1. Locating hollow walls.
   Carrying water.
2. Refrigerator tubing.
   Underground installations.

Copper pipes are definitely not for locating hollow walls. There's a variety of uses for them, not limited to water carriage, tubings for fridges, and multiple underground installations.

1. Polystemic Volichloride
   Polystic Volatile Chlorination
2. Polyvinyl Chloride
   Polarization Voltage Carrier

PVC is the common term for a type of piping with the particular chemical makeup made to handle all sorts of hazardous waste. You'd often find the term "PVC pipe" thrown around in the industry.

1. It can be used in the game of "Clue"
   It can be used for carrying steam.
2. It can't rust.
   It has threads designed for tightening.

Galvanized pipes have what's called a "zinc coating." That zinc coating actually makes it very easy for the pipe to resist rust.

1. The letter "C."
   CPVC pipes are chlorinated.
2. No difference at all except for higher quality material.
   CPVC pipes can only be fitted with a foam core.

CPVC pipes are the same as PVC pipes. However, there is one difference: CPVC pipes are treated with chlorine, hence the term "chlorinated polyvinyl chloride."

1. Duct tape.
   Drill bits.
2. Soldered fittings.
   Super glue.

Since copper pipes don't have any threads, it presents a problem in trying to connect them to each other. Soldered fittings solve that issue as connectors between two pipes. Simply fit two pipes on both ends, and you have a connection.

1. With a dielectric union.
   Carefully.
2. With a soldered fitting.
   Through holy matrimony.

It might as well be a marriage made in Heaven as a dielectric union prevents electrolysis from occurring between the two different pipes. Electrolysis is what will strip away the copper tubing, hence why the union is there to protect it.

1. Use cardboard around the insides for a tight fit.
   Cement the insides.
2. Use a reducer coupling or elbow.
   Duct tape. It solves everything.

Couplings are a great way to transition to different sizes. Get the right kind of coupling, and you can fit just about any size copper pipe to another one regardless of size matching.

1. "Butterfly"
   "Hose barb"
2. "Claw clamp"
   "Shimmy"

Because of an adjustable clamp used with the fitting designed to hold the pipes or hoses in place, the fitting has earned the nickname. It's a "barb" designed to hold the "hose" in place.

1. Pair of plumber scissors.
   A torch.
2. A crimp tool.
   Hacksaw.

Piping's durable, so you need something just as durable. Hacksaws do the trick. You can also get a pair of pipe cutters, which are obviously stronger than any pair of "scissors."

1. Courage.
   A small steel brush, cement, and lighter.
2. Elbow grease.
   A flux, torch, extra gas and emery cloth.

It's actually pretty easy fitting copper pipes without the threading as all you need is that torch and a solder to merge both together. You then use the cloth to smooth the connection up.

1. Krazy glue.
   Duct tape.
2. Solvent welding glue.
   Nails.

The beautiful thing about solvent welding glue is that it's a substance designed to melt the fitting to the pipe. Once they're joined, nothing can break them apart.

1. Central air.
   Water supply.
2. Gas supply.
   The toilet.

Compression fittings are designed to be completely airtight, which is why they're generally used for water supply.

1. To unclog a toilet.
   To light a water heater.
2. To close one end in a male thread.
   For your nose.

A "plug" is typically a type of cap. This cap is what's used to block off one end of a male thread for a solvent weld connection.

1. No.
   With a torch, yes.
2. An adapter coupling does the trick.
   All you need is duct tape.

Adapter couplings are handy to have around. The reason why is due to their customization—hence why they're perfect for solvent welds fitted to threaded pipes.

1. A hermaphrodite.
   Steel knee.
2. Street elbow.
   Confused.

Common lingo shows that the name for that particular type of fitting is none other than the "street elbow," a fitting that has one side fitting the male end, and the other side fitting the female end.

1. A crewneck.
   A sanitary tee.
2. A screen-printed tee.
   A wye bend.

A "tee" is named as such because of the shape of the fitting, which looks like the capital letter "T." A sanitary tee has a curve designed for a cleanout plug to keep things sanitary when dealing with waste lines.

1. Not unless they're very cold.
   Sure, they're nicknames for flanges, and they're used all the time.
2. Yep, they're really short versions of pipes, typically less than 12 inches.
   They're movable plugs for sinks and toilets.

"Nipples" are common. They're small versions of pipes used to increase length, getting to connections easier.

1. Ghosts.
   Hot water.
2. High water pressure.
   Inaccurate fittings.

High water pressure tends to cause a lot banging. If you hear it, you need to do something about it. A water hammer arrestor does the trick.

1. The blue one.
   The larger one.
2. The smaller one.
   The plastic one.

For under-floor supply lines, you're going to want to connect the larger one to the toilet. The piping connected to the toilet, outside of washers, represents the largest due to waste management.

1. It's a mesh designed to collect food debris in a sink.
   Plumbers use these "traps" to eliminate rodents and other pests.
2. Plumbers install "traps" under sinks and tubs to route wastewater to the drain.
   Plumbers trap roots in sewage pipes with this contraption.

Traps are a type of piping with a curve designed to trap wastewater. As the pipe continues to fill, it pushes wastewater down into the drain.

1. Plug drain and cap drain.
   Push drain and pop drain.
2. Tub drain and pop-up drain.
   Automatic drain and manual drain.

Tub drains are only used for tubs given the depth of water. Pop-up drains are pretty standard in bathroom sinks.

1. 1 and 1/4 inches.
   2 inches.
2. 1 inch.
   1 and 1/2 inches.

1 and 1/4-inch traps are commonly for bathroom sinks. If you're looking for the ideal trap for your kitchen sink, you'll want to go with a 1 and 1/2 inch.

1. Super glue.
   Plumber's putty.
2. Bubble gum.
   Duct tape.

Who knew there was such a thing? That hardening material that's very much like silly putty only so much more durable is often used to minimize all sorts of leaking.

1. A set of plastic supply lines are much longer than the standard copper ones.
   They don't kink, and they're very flexible.
2. They're so much more cost-effective.
   They don't corrode.

There's no standard lengths for plastic lines. Generally speaking, the rest of the answers are all common benefits for going plastic for your water supply.

1. You put one underneath each foot of your toilet.
   You connect it to a pipe from a wall.
2. You can use it to bridge a pipe to the floor.
   You can use a floor flange on any flat surface.

Floor flanges typically stabilize piping and tubes on any flat surface. This includes pipes in walls, floors or just about anywhere.

1. A mask.
   A Taser.
2. A flashlight.
   A pair of clippers.

We don't doubt that a lot of these would be worthwhile to have at some point. But ultimately you won't go far without a good hands-free flashlight to light the way.

1. Kitchen sinks.
   Refrigerators.
2. Water heaters.
   Bathroom tubs.

Because fridges require certain freezing measures, flared fittings tend to provide the best possible compression. The flares manage to maintain compression through those extreme temperatures.

1. Sure, with a blowtorch and a hammer.
   All you need is plumber's putty.
2. Either tighten the hex nut or remove it completely and add some stem packing.
   Apply pressure with a wrench on the hex nut and valve. Slowly pull.

The hex nut is the crux of the entire configuration. Tighten it or remove it and then add packaging to seal it more, and that should do the trick.

1. Install an alkaline-based solution into your water supply.
   Use an ACETAL valve.
2. Tighten your gaskets.
   Flush the sewage system.

ACETAL valves resist mineral buildup. They are, therefore, quite exceptional when optimizing the quality of your water supply.

1. When you have a disability.
   For purposes of upgrading the entire water supply system.
2. When installing natural gas or LP into your house.
   To prevent children from causing accidents.

Typically ball valves are used for your natural gas or LP. They tend to be a lot safer in terms of operation.

1. A gun that shoots oil.
   A stapler that shoots iron fittings into pipes.
2. A component placed in fittings for additional seal.
   A golden basket.

Gaskets are used to improve the tightening of fittings to pipes, pressed against threadings. They're usually made of rubber, plastic or paper.

1. When plumbers do landscaping around the pipes outside for proper access.
   When a plumber places the putty all around the pipes for proper insulation.
2. A plumber fits this inside a coupling to make the fitting smaller.
   A plumber uses this to change the direction of the pipe's connection.

Bushings are smaller fittings designed to match the size of pipes that are too small for established fittings currently placed. Placing a bushing inside a pipe will then make the hole of the pipe smaller.

1. Wing Elbow
   Foot Elbow
2. Claw Elbow
   Finger Elbow

Drop ear elbows, also known as "wing elbows," typically are used as rigid installation pieces. You use them for holding elbows to a wall, often when installing shower arms and washer hose valves.

1. Duct tape.
   Super glue.
2. Pipe cement.
   Plumber's tape.

The only thing you might need would be pipe cement. Everything else would pretty much not do the job at all given the environment. Pipe cement is designed to bind with the piping and ensure proper hold.

1. Something plumbers joke about.
   A plug on the water heater.
2. The outside faucet you hook garden hoses to.
   A switch underneath the house that turns on the sewer.

Most houses have these outdoor faucets with the valve. They give a homeowner direct access to the water supply for garden hoses.